Uruguay Country Information

• BRADT TRAVEL GDS

The Guru’Guay Guide to Montevideo is the first REAL insider’s guide to Montevideo, capital of Uruguay, and still one of South America’s off-the-radar destinations. Up until now it's been virtually impossible to find a good guidebook on Uruguay. Why? Because they are written by people who fly in for a week and then leave. This guide is by a Spanish-speaking Brit, resident since 2000. While the guide focuses on Montevideo, it's indispensable for anyone visiting Uruguay.

Features in-depth information on:

LOGISTICS

• flying into Uruguay, including a candid look at airlines to avoid
• getting to (or from) Montevideo from Buenos Aires The fastest, cheapest and most leisurely routes
• best time to visit and how long to stay Insights only a long-term resident can give
• public holidays when Montevideo pretty much shuts down, so it's essential to know when they are and festivals you must not miss, like the mysterious Sea Goddess celebrations
• best neighbourhoods to stay based on your personal preferences
• architecturally-lovely accommodation Options for all pockets
• personal safety Dispelling myths and tips specific to neighbourhoods
• getting around on public transport like a local
• driving and car rental The logic in seemingly erratic traffic patterns and driving habits
• tipping demystified eg why you don't tip taxi drivers but do tip street parking attendants
• money exchange including troubleshooting ATM withdrawals

THINGS TO DO

• guided tours to wine, marijuana, soccer, carnival and more
• great day trips, from UNESCO heritage site Colonia de Sacramento, to glitzy Punta del Este, to the Santa Lucia wetlands
• architectural highlights in possibly the city with the biggest concentration of Art-deco after New York
• art museums and underground art coops
• beaches including which of the 10 is best for children, windsurf and boat rental, etc
• shopping and buying original gifts Really. Ever heard of a guidebook that helps you with this thankless task?
• shopping for wine-lovers Wow, right? Where to go to get expert advice and dah goods
• why Carnival in Montevideo is so unique and where and when to track down the best (and worst) of carnival, even off-season
• tango Here tango is something the locals do, it's not “for export”. One milonga, or dance salon, even takes place in a living room.
• the best live music and live acts that Montevideo has to offer Tiny Uruguay has a huge share of highly talented musicians. Pay under 10 USD to see a world-class band in a tiny cafe.
• gay Montevideo has a small but charming scene

FOOD & DRINK

• what time the locals eat and how Uruguayans survive through to a 10pm dinnertime
• street food
• wine and craft beer from Uruguay are winning prizes internationally. The guide points you to which to try and why
• restaurants for people desperate for gourmet and veggie options
• restaurants for wine-lovers
• historic cafes The most charming, and the grittiest

SOCIETY & CULTURE

• history How did this tiny country get to be so progressive? Your burning questions answered.
• the Uruguayan character, a chapter of entirely personal anecdotes that illustrate that Uruguayans (from presidents to petty thieves) are friendly and down-to-earth
• expressions EVERYONE uses on the street and what they mean
• films to watch, albums to listen to and books to read before you come

Written by a Brit with all the contacts and knowledge accrued over almost twenty years living in Uruguay, this guidebook will make your holiday planning stress-free and ensure you have an unforgettable time in one of South America's least-explored destinations.

The Guru'Guay Guides are not endless dry lists. You have limited time. So the author selects only the very best or the most curious places and then goes into serious detail—so you can make travel decisions with confidence. The guide describes each destination, where to stay and eat, things to do, how to get there and features important 'what you should know' advisories. So easy to read, readers often devour a Guru'Guay guide in one sitting.

The beaches

Uruguay has an extremely short high season. The rest of the year you'll have the entire beach to yourself. Roam the sandy streets of hippie hideaways in Rocha, commune with thousands of seals in the Hebridean solitude of Cabo Polonio and check out Jose Ignacio, a former fishing town frequented by the likes of Mark Zuckerberg.

The guide looks at each beach, when to visit (crucial to avoid crowds), where to stay (including renting) and where to eat. Off-season most seaside restaurants and hotels close down. On a mission to improve the beach economy, the guide only includes great hotels and restaurants open all year.

Gaucho country

Uruguayans refer to anywhere beyond Montevideo and the coast as “Uruguay profundo”. The land is untouched and you may pass more gauchos on horseback than cars on the two-lane highways. Take a few days to kick back at a traditional cattle ranch or estancia.

The Guru'Guay guide covers estancias to suit all tastes—from a rustic ranch owned by a gaucho couple, to the grand estancia of an Austrian-Uruguayan family with a lovely pool and capybaras in the garden, to a 'million-star' vegetarian inn specialising in adventurous horse rides in the stunning Rocha hills.

An chart will help you choose the estancia that best suits your dream holiday.

The friendliest wineries

If you haven't tried Uruguayan wine yet, maybe it's because the entire wine production of Uruguay is equivalent to just one medium-size vineyard in neighbouring Argentina! A winery visit is uniquely friendly and personal. Your host will often be the wine-maker, the great grandchild of Italian immigrants, who still bottles their award-winning wines by hand.

The dedicated wine traveller will love the lists of the best Uruguayan wines by local experts.

Foodies – you've found your guide

This is where Guru'Guay really comes into its own, uncovering unique eateries in a country primarily known for its beef. Like an urban 18-seat bistro run by an ex-motorbike mechanic which chefs are calling the most exciting thing to hit Uruguay culinarily in years. Or the best little foodtruck between the airport and the beach.

Practical tips

To make your stay stress-free and save you money, chapters include:

• Getting to Uruguay including flying, the ferry or coming overland
• Holidays and festivals The best festivals and where to stay close by
• What to bring So you save space for the wine you'll want to take home
• Driving and car hire including estimated drive times—GoogleMaps can be way out
• Food and drink What eating out costs, mealtimes and ten traditional dishes
• Staying healthy Essential tips on marijuana etiquette
• Money and tipping including the weirdest ATM hacks that actually work.
• Caveat regarding maps Why the author recommends picking up free paper maps at regional tourist centres when you arrive.

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